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By Eric Lawlor

Published on August 27, 1998

I don't own a car myself. I never have. But were all drive-throughs as good as Thai Racha (10085 Long Point, 464-7607), I'd seriously consider buying one. This restaurant, housed in what was once a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet, offers what it calls "authentic Thai fast food." But that should be qualified. This is fast food of a distinctly superior kind. The pad Thai is excellent, and the spring rolls are great, but eclipsing all is a soup called tom ka chicken ($3.49). Sporting lots of lime and plenty of coconut milk, it's more than delicious. It comes close to being sublime. Thai Racha is named for Thailand's much-loved monarch. ("Racha" means king.) If I were His Majesty, I'd be very, very proud.