Hoagie, hero, grinder, sub, poor boy -- no matter what you call it, it all comes down to pretty much the same thing: a stuffed sandwich on some kind of French or Italian bread. The steak hoagie ($4.19) at Pete's Fine Meats & Deli (5509 Richmond, 713-782-3470) is one such example. A full half-pound of well-seasoned, thinly shaved beef is fried up on the griddle; provolone cheese is slowly melted on the top as the beef finishes cooking. An eight-inch length of French bread is sliced down the middle and slathered with mayonnaise, then filled with the beef mixture, along with shredded lettuce and slices of tomatoes. Simple, elegant, filling.