Every once in a while an appetizer comes along that defines not only its restaurant but a certain place in time. Enter the Chicken Liver Old Fashioned at Nobie's, an irreverent starter for lovers of the ever-trendy bourbon-based old-fashioned and of poor man's foie gras (also known as chicken liver pâté). A layer of the whipped mousse arrives in a lowball glass, gussied up like an actual cocktail with cherries on a swizzle stick and an orange peel draped over the rim. It's emblematic of the quirky and none-too-serious talents of Nobie's chef and owner, Martin Stayer, whose Montrose haunt has been capturing the hearts of the neighborhood since opening in late 2016. Not only that, but the dish is just simply delicious, perfect for sharing —as an appetizer well should be — with the creamy pâté combining with sweet and tart cherry jelly for the perfect bite on buttery toasted baguette. This alone will keep us returning to Nobie's.