Many Houstonians are eagerly awaiting today's 11 a.m. announcement of the 2016 James Beard Award finalists. This year features
the most concurrent semifinalists from Houston ever, so itās a good time to look back on this city's history with the awards.
Before the James Beard Foundation Awards, there was the Whoās Who of Food & Beverage in America. In 1987,
Robert Del Grande (formerly of
CafƩ Annie and now at RDG + Bar Annie) was the first Houston chef recognized in that capacity.
The James Beard Foundation Awards were established in 1990 and only a year later, Del Grande was nominated for the Best Chefs In AmericaāSouthwest category. He didnāt win that year, but did in 1992.
It was the last win ā on the chef and restaurant side ā for Houston until 2008.
As the saying goes, itās an honor simply to be nominated, and
Tonyās was ā twice ā in 1992 for both Outstanding Service and Outstanding Wine Service.
Chef Robert del Grande went back on the Beard radar a few more times in the 1990s and early 2000s. His restaurant, CafƩ Annie, was nominated for Outstanding Restaurant in 1993 and Outstanding Wine Service in both 1999 and 2001.
The James Beard Books, Broadcast and Journalism awards are a process separate from the chef and restaurant awards. There are no semifinalists, only finalists, and thereās a fee for submitting entries (which is typical for journalism competitions).
Updated, 3/15/16, 4:05 p.m.: a reader let us know about
Margo True, a writer for
Houston Metropolitan magazine at the time who won the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award for "Backstage at CafƩ Annie." The article detailed her experiences learning kitchen technique under chef Robert Del Grande.
In 1995, an exceptionally talented restaurant critic and food writer scored a win on the journalism side for Houston when she was honored for her work at this very publication, the
Houston Press. Her name, of course, is
Alison Cook, and she won not only in the Newspaper Restaurant Review category but also the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award for her articles ā
Church of the Immaculate Barbecueā and ā
Tempting Tapas.ā
The latter was about the South American food of
Michael CordĆŗa of
Churrascos, who would be a Best Chef Southwest finalist in 1997.
The category would later be renamed the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award, and Cook won again for her restaurant criticism in 2004, this time for her work at the
Houston Chronicle. Sheās been a finalist repeatedly since then, including in 2012, 2013 and 2014. Cook declined to enter the competition in 2015.
Meanwhile, an Austin writer named
Robb Walsh, who would later relocate and have a great deal of influence on Houston, won his first James Beard award for Best Magazine Feature Writing with Recipes in 1996 for an
American Way Magazine article entitled, ā
Hot Sauce Safari.ā It was the first of many wins for the author and radio host. He won again in 1999 for an NPR Weekend Edition Sunday segment called, āSpam Luau.ā
Despite being
nominated nine times during his decade of work for the
Houston Press, and again for his
Legends of Texas Barbecue Cookbook, Walshās next win wouldnāt come until after he left the publication in 2011. It was for his contribution to a
Garden & Gun magazine article titled "The Southerner's Guide to Oysters."
Back on the chef and restaurant side of the Beards, the early 2000s, it was chef
Tim Keatingās turn in the spotlight for his work at
Deville Restaurant at Four Seasons Houston, which would later be rebranded as Quattro. (Chef Maurizio Ferrarese is in charge there these days, while Keating went on to an interesting gig at The Flying Fish CafĆ© in BoardWalk Inn at Walt Disney Resort in Orlando.) Keating was nominated five times for Best Chefs In AmericaāSouthwest ā and never won.
Monica Pope of
Tāafia (which is now Sparrow Bar + Cookshop) was Houstonās first (and, so far, only) female chef nominated for a Beard award. A woman with an even longer history in Houston would secure the first Beard win of any sort since del Grande won in 1992.
Irma Galvanās Tex-Mex haven,
Irmaās Restaurant, was named an Americaās Classic in 2008.
For the next two years, there were no Houston finalists. Then, in 2010 and 2011, Bryan Caswell was nominated for Best Chef Southwest for his Gulf seafood-focused restaurant, Reef. On the journalism side,
Katharine Shilcutt was nominated in the
Multimedia Food Feature category for her in-depth look at charcuterie for the
Houston Press. The article was called ā
Designer Meatsā and was accompanied by a butchery video that featured chef Chris Shepherd, who at the time was still at Catalan. Heād be up for his own James Beard award soon after.
Chef
Hugo Ortega of
Hugoās was first nominated in 2012 for Best Chef Southwest, and heās been a finalist every year since. Joining him in 2013 was chef
Chris Shepherd of
Underbelly. The following year, Shepherd won and became the first since Robert del Grande to win Best Chef Southwest.
In 2014, another chef became a finalist ā
Justin Yu of
Oxheart. Yu and Ortega were nominated again in 2015, but lost to barbecue guru Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue in Austin.
Will Ortega and Yu be finalists again in 2016? Will any of the
other Houston semifinalists ā especially restaurants like The Pass (an Outstanding Service semifinalist), five-time semifinalist Anvil Bar & Refuge or newcomer Helen Greek Food & Wine (a semifinalist in the Best New Restaurant category) break through to the finals this year?
Soon, we will know.
(Thanks goes to Paula Murphy of Patterson & Murphy Public Relations for saving me some research time by forwarding a handy spreadsheet she had received from the Beard Foundation.)