Brick & Mortar Kitchen is smartly located nearly in the center of the rapidly developing nexus between Katy, Fulshear, Mission Bend and Richmond. Originally, the concept was an ambitious one, driven by a desire to create sophisticated dishes with local ingredients. Regrettably, the locals didn’t gravitate to the fare and complained about prices, so the menu has been overhauled. Among the missing: garden-fresh salads, hearty plates of lamb chops, perfectly cooked duck breast, elegant French fries covered in clouds of Parmesan and pizzas with bubbly, crispy crusts. In their places are overcooked fish tacos, pale pizza crusts, uninspiring “hot wings” that use fried oysters instead of chicken, and a Cobb salad that could be found in the prepared-foods section of a grocery store. On the positive side: It’s a beautiful, secluded setting that doesn’t seem like dining next door to a furniture store, and service is personable and considerate. Should Brick & Mortar Kitchen decide to revert to the original menu, that would be fine with us. As it stands, there’s nothing here worth driving for unless you’re also in need of a new sofa.