Jeff Balke
Imagine continental cuisine served without irony, a place where a comfortable darkness settles over everything and your major light source is the flaming dishes prepared tableside. At Fuad's, there are no menus; instead, the wait staff arrives, asking, "What do you feel like eating tonight? I can make you a fillet of beef with a cracked black pepper sauce, the best rack of lamb in town, veal chops with artichokes and mushrooms or roast duck with black-cherry sauce." (Please note that all items are "gourmet food" circa 1975.) First-rate lobster bisque is rich, creamy, redolent of brandy and loaded with sweet pieces of lobster, while shrimp scampi is fresh and nicely seasoned with garlic and basil.