Lai Lai Dumpling House

The first thing you need to know is that Lai Lai Dumpling House doesn't take credit cards. The second thing you need to know is that the first thing doesn't matter -- the prices are laughably low at this Chinatown restaurant. The namesake dumplings are not the delicate Cantonese or elegant Japanese gyoza versions, but rather thick skins surrounding heartily spiced fillings. Waiters may warn against Westerners trying some dishes, but most are pleasing to Asian-trained palates. The chicken Lai Lai is roasted, chopped and stir-fried to make the skins crispy, then glossed with a light cilantro sauce. The moo shee pork-fried cake is saturated with a smoky flavor.