The “Pagoda roll” ($7) at Pagoda Vietnamese Bistro & Bar (4705 Inker, 832-673-0400) begs the question, “Why didn’t anyone think of this before?” There are two traditional appetizers on the menus of many Vietnamese restaurants — spring rolls and Vietnamese crepes. Only at Pagoda did someone decide to marry the two. They take two of the thin, translucent rice paper sheets used to make spring rolls and fill them with a yellow crepe made with pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and cilantro. Then they roll them up and slice them into six pieces, all of which can be managed with chopsticks. A simple bowl of fish sauce with slivered carrots is the only accompaniment necessary for this stupendous appetizer.
This article appears in Aug 7-13, 2008.