The walls at the Buffalo Grille [3116 Bissonnet, (713)661-3663] are a virtual shrine to the Old West, a time when the restaurant’s namesake animal was indeed a primary source of sustenance. The grill’s rough-‘n’-tumble attitude filters right down to its menu, where you will find such hearty plates as the huevos burrito ($6.50), which could feed the hungriest of ranch hands, even the ones who drive SUVs. The Texas-size special starts with a king-size flour tortilla, the likes of which the wraps joints have rarely seen. It’s stuffed with two scrambled eggs, ground sausage and refried beans, then smothered in both cheddar and jack cheeses. Topping off the comforting comida is your choice of ranchero or green chili sauce. Go for the green chili — it’s mild enough for mornings, but still packs that south-of-the-border kick that will rustle you out of bed.
This article appears in Sep 21-27, 2000.