At Mama Assumption’s (6609 W. Sam Houston Pkwy. South #96, 713-777-6262), a deep, thick, rich roux is poured on top of the oven-roasted oxtails ($12.99), creating an unbelievable combination of tender, bone-sucking meat and robust gravy that just screams to be lapped up with whatever’s available. Fortunately, the dish comes with two large scoops of mashed potatoes. Fresh green beans, still firm, are gently tossed in butter to add something green, but they’re almost unnecessary since the meat and potatoes are so delish.
This article appears in Apr 10-16, 2008.