When catfish is prepared just right — crispy on the outside, moist and juicy on the inside, with no swampy taste or hint of grease — there’s nothing quite like it. The catfish at Soul on the Bayeaux (3717 Dowling, 713-528-0732) is an example of perfection. First, the fillets are coated with a mixture of cornmeal, salt, pepper and Cajun seasonings. Then they’re fried to a golden crisp — not too much, not too little — in very hot oil that seals in the moistness and prevents the coating from absorbing extra grease. You can get three fillets for $8.95 or, for $3 more, as many as you can eat. The sides at Soul on the Bayeaux are also a draw. Try the smoky red beans and rice with andouille sausage or the divine black-eyed-pea-and-okra mix.
This article appears in Jun 9-15, 2005.