If garlic is a health food, maybe it’s the nutrition-conscious who have made the pollo al ajillo ($10.95) the most popular entrée at El Meson [2425 University Boulevard, (713)522-9306]. Then again, maybe folks just like loads of garlic. This Cuban dish features a boneless, skinless chicken breast that’s marinated overnight in dry white wine, lemon juice and seasonings. Then it’s seared over a flame and charbroiled until nearly done. Meanwhile, a cook heats a skillet with olive oil, butter, onion and surely half a dozen cloves of garlic. After the accompanying vegetables are sautéed golden in the skillet, the chicken goes in for a final cooking. Five minutes later the meat is served topped with the garlic on a plate with rice, black beans and fried sweet plantains. For those who believe beauty lies in simplicity, this dish is proof positive.
This article appears in Jan 11-17, 2001.