The exterior of Barnacle’s (9401 South Gessner, 713-777-0620) doesn’t even begin to hint at what’s in store inside. This deceivingly decrepit place has a downright cheery interior, with high ceilings, loads of plants (okay, so they’re fake) and the expected seaside motifs of netting and anchors. But the best reason to dive deep into southwest Houston is the corner of the menu marked “Fresh Seafood.” The owner gladly brags that his flounder, mahi mahi and salmon are brought in fresh daily. All are simply broiled with a dash of paprika, but the stuffed flounder ($13.95) has a bonus breading that’s studded with shrimp and crab. With these catches, it’s best to steer clear of the fried seafood that keeps places like this afloat.
This article appears in Aug 9-15, 2001.