The King Ranch enchiladas ($8.95) at Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen (12637 Westheimer, 281-679-8300) should satisfy just about any cowpoke. What makes them so good are the tiny cubes of grilled meat (chicken or beef) that have been wrapped in a tortilla and doused with a good helping of Sylvia’s own chili gravy, whose typical brown color is interrupted by the cheese melting on top. Two come to a platter, although more are always available, accompanied by homemade refried beans and Spanish rice. Just right for roaming them 825,000 acres that make up the King Ranch.
This article appears in Oct 21-27, 2004.