Somehow “fish stew” ($10.99) doesn’t sound half as appetizing as peixada à brasileira, its Portuguese translation, found on the menu of Emporio Brazilian Cafe (12288 Westheimer, 281-293-7442). But no matter what you call it, it’s a heartwarming meal that comes with enough seafood — shrimp, calamari and pieces of salmon and cod — to please the hungriest of fishermen. The seafood is sautéed with onions, bell peppers and tomatoes in olive oil and saffron-infused coconut milk, creating an incredibly creamy blend of seafood flavors. Plain white rice served on the side is perfect for absorbing the extra yellow-hued broth at the bottom of the dish.
This article appears in Dec 30, 2004 – Jan 5, 2005.