At The Rivendell Bar & Grille (920 Studemont, 713-564-3700), there is a magnificent mural of that mystical land of the same name from J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings. There is also a dish called shrimp gambary ($10), which may well have mystical powers. All it took was one bite to transport me to another world. A puff-pastry shell, known as a vol-au-vent, is filled to overflowing with lump crabmeat. Scallops and shrimp swimming in a sea of sauce seem to cascade from all sides. And the cream sauce, touched with tarragon, is ethereal. This is the kind of food from which fellowships are made.
This article appears in Apr 17-23, 2003.