The potato flour Italian dumplings at Simposio (5591 Richmond, 713-532-0550) are formed to look like small scallops swimming in a rich Gorgonzola cheese fondue. The Gorgonzola imparts an intense flavor to the otherwise bland boiled gnocchi. The dish would be completely monochromatic but for some green speckles of chopped parsley and a generous topping of freshly grated Parmesan, which adds a yellow hue. The texture of the gnocchi is such that they beg to be pressed between your tongue and the roof of your mouth, then swallowed. Available at dinner only ($12.50).
This article appears in Feb 6-12, 2003.