Forties-era swing music and gleaming dark-wood booths with wine-red leather upholstery greet you at the front door of Truluck’s Steak and Stone Crab [5919 Westheimer, (713)783-7270]. The bartop is made of onyx and is lit from beneath. Bartender Ken Decker prides himself on martinis, and the bar is stocked with all manner of vodkas, gins and vermouths. But after six years of sucking olive juice, I’m tired of martinis. Decker’s Italian Margarita is a nice change of pace. When he set it down on the bar, the yellow light gave the golden margarita an eerie glow.

Truluck’s Italian Margarita

Decker served this in a glass with salt on the rim, which was a huge mistake. Salt and amaretto make an awful combination. It’s much better decorated with sugar, Decker admitted. But I prefer a naked rim. The almond liqueur and citrus give this cocktail plenty of sweetness.

3 shots gold tequila

1 shot triple sec (or Cointreau)

2 heaping tablespoons frozen limeade concentrate

1 shot orange juice

2 cups crushed ice

1 shot amaretto

Orange slice

Combine tequila, triple sec, limeade concentrate, OJ and crushed ice in a blender and puree until slushy. Pour the cocktail into a large margarita glass then pour the amaretto over the top. Yields one large margarita. Garnish with the orange slice.

This article appears in Jul 6-12, 2000.