The Latin name for cuttlefish is sepia; the color is named for the ink it uses to warn off predators. A cousin to squid and octopus, only much more tender, cuttlefish is popular in Asian cuisines. At A Dong (10780 Bellaire Boulevard, 281-498-8810), they prepare it as a house specialty called muc rang muoi ($8.95). The English translation, “salted, sautéed cuttlefish with Vietnamese style,” doesn’t convey much more information. The lightly battered cuttlefish, which is deep-fried yet shows no sign of grease, sits atop a bed of fresh watercress, sautéed onions, pickled onions and tomatoes. It’s served with a small bowl of salt and pepper into which you squeeze fresh lemon juice, then dip the cuttlefish pieces. As simple as these flavors are, their intensity makes the dish special.
This article appears in Nov 7-13, 2002.