Something's Fishy

Speaking off the toque: Scott Tycer, chef and owner of Aries [4315 Montrose Boulevard, (713)526-4404].

Q. How can diners tell if their fish is fresh or previously frozen?

A. You can tell very quickly, whether the fish is raw or cooked. Freezing causes the proteins to break down. There are not enough sugars in most fish to prevent cell damage from occurring. Also, as a result of ice crystals forming inside of cells, the cell walls are punctured and fluids seep out. For the same reason, cryogenic preservation of humans or their organs has not worked. Raw fish that has been frozen and then thawed looks pasty, mushy — I guess mealy is the best word. Imagine ground meat, but with a fish color. That is how I spot it, and when I do, it gets sent right back out to the supplier.

Cooked fish that has been previously frozen won’t have that texture on the tongue — you’ll lose the flake that only fresh fish has. Monkfish is a classic in the restaurant business as a frozen fish that is sold as fresh. Because of its firm texture, it loses less quality from freezing than more delicate fishes.

For diners, I would recommend that they buy smartly, either in the supermarket or a restaurant. Don’t go to a middle-of-the-road steak house and order the fish, even if it is on special. Know who you are dealing with is a good general rule as well.