A colleague and I were enjoying the bluesy rock on the hi-fi at Bootsie’s Heritage Cafe when our genial waitress delivered our lunch entrรฉes. The music faded in my head as I eyed the chicken-fried rabbit perched atop a creamy bed of grits. My first forkful delivered a succulent bite of thigh meat, but my enjoyment of the dish was heightened once I decided to ditch the utensil for a Henry the VIII-inspired, medieval grip. The flavor was there, to be certain, but the visceral experience of grabbing the dish with my hands made it an experience. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS

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