When it comes to smothered fries, we whole-heartedly believe that the more crap that gets loaded on top, the better. Try these five plates of cheese-drizzled, meat-laden, gravy-and-sauce-slathered fries.
What: Tex-Cajun Virgin Fries
Where to find them: BB’s Cafe
Our love affair with BB’s Cajun take on poutine began when food critic Robb Walsh waxed poetic about it in 2009. A year later, he went on to name the plate of crisp, shoestring fries — which get a healthy smothering of chile con queso, tender roast beef, and gravy — one of his top 20 “100 Favorite Dishes” in Houston. One taste and you’ll know why.
What: Fat Fries
Where to find them: Fat Bao
Fat Bao serves its hand-cut fries (which won our 2013 Best French Fry award) three ways, but our favorite preparation is the most gluttonous of them all. These skinny and crisp shoestring frites come swimming in the restaurant’s signature kimchee aioli, sriracha, onions, cilantro, and your choice of meat — either tender marinated bulgogi or sweet and fatty braised pork belly. And don’t worry — you can’t go wrong with either.
What: Philly Poutine
Where to find it: Pappa Geno’s
This Philly cheesesteak shop serves its ultra-crisp, twiggy fries in the style of, you guessed it, a Philly cheesesteak. Because if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. The fries get a heavy-handed ladle of Cheez Whiz before being piled high with juicy chopped steak and grilled onions. Pro tip: Add on hot giardiniera and a side of gravy, too.
What: Lamb Keema Poutine
Where to find it: The Queen Vic Pub & Kitchen
This British pub gives poutine a bit of Indian flare. The crisp and chubby house-cut chips come drenched and piled with lamb keema, melted paneer and mozzeralla, peas, and a spicy tomato-coriander masala gravy. Wash it all down with a pint for best results.
What: Bangkok Fries
Where to find them: Boheme Cafe & Wine Bar
Boheme never shies away from cooking in the proverbial melting pot; and that couldn’t be more obvious with their signature “Bangkok fries.” Perhaps one of the largest mounds of fries in Houston is drizzled, sprinkled, and loaded with hoison sauce, garlic mayo, smoked, charbroiled pork, yellow curry, cilantro, crushed peanuts, and a whole lotta sriracha. The result is a sweet, spicy, tangy, and luscious pile of fries not to be missed.
This article appears in Oct 2-8, 2014.
