Name That Pâté: Blindfold your dinner mate, and the poor dear will never be able to guess the surprising ingredients of the vegetarian version of pâté ($8.50) at Boulevard Bistrot [4319 Montrose Boulevard, (713)524-6922]. Secret ingredient number one: a medley of diced wild and domestic mushrooms, cool and meaty, pressed smooth and sliced into slabs. Two: The crunchy texture and dark, rich flavor of chopped and toasted hazelnuts that, without peeking at the menu, took us a quarter of an hour to identify. And three: the tangy vinaigrette, light and clear as brook water, slightly sweet and a touch spicy with infused vanilla bean. Nobody, but nobody, will guess all three, we guarantee it.