Righteous Ribs: Let us count the ways we've fallen in love with the rib plate ($7.95) at Baker's Ribs [2223 South Voss, (713)977-8725]. Start with all five of the thick, rosy-pink smoked pork ribs, the tender meat slipping so gently from the bones. Then there's that frisky barbecue sauce, deep red, tomatoey and pleasingly sharp with vinegar and black pepper. Last but absolutely not least, the sides: The best two are the creamy white potato salad and the tomato wedges marinated in a dusky, mustard-based vinaigrette splashed with Worcestershire sauce. Only the color-blind could overlook this unassuming little barbecue joint: Watch for the giant pink plastic pig's snout, scowling down from the facade of the bright red building.