The savory omelet known in Japan as okonomiyaki can be made with many different ingredients. "Okonomi" means "what you like" and "yaki" means "grilled" or "cooked," so the name fits this thick, egg-based dish. The version at Kaneyama (9527 Westheimer, 713-784-5168) appears on the menu under "Japanese Specialties" and is filled with a delicious mixture of shrimp, squid and green onions. Two omelets come to an order, and they are served with some grated cabbage on the side and a dollop of a thick, yellow, mayonnaise-style sauce on top. They're also sprinkled with whisper-thin strands of dried bonito fish, which writhe and shake as if alive on the sizzling platter.