Must all fish be fried? The weighty brown batters and burbling vats of oil that once dominated the deep-fried seafood scene in Galveston are gradually giving way to a New Age wave of heart-healthier preps, such as the seared tuna appetizer, $6.95 at the Gulf-fronting Fish Tales [2502 Seawall, (409)762-8545]. A satisfying six-ounce serving of thinly sliced, meltingly tender tuna steak is fanned across a decorative deep green lettuce leaf, wearing a grill-tanned coat around its cool, rosy-mauve rare center. Served with a pungent, sinus-clearing dipping cup of soy sauce and wasabi, the tuna can dashingly double as an inexpensive — and guilt-free — lunch entree.
This article appears in May 27 – Jun 2, 1999.