The traditional Swiss cheese fondue ($14) at The Melting Pot (6100 Westheimer, 713-532-5011) transports diners back to the ’70s, when fondue parties were all the rage. The waiters at the Pot prepare this dish for two tableside. They pour a cup of white wine, a heaping tablespoon of minced garlic and a good squeeze of lemon into a warm fondue pot. Then they stir in a blend of grated Gruyรจre and Emmentaler cheeses until it melts to a rich, thick consistency. A jigger of Kirschwasser (cherry brandy), some freshly ground black pepper and a dash of nutmeg round out the dish. “Bottomless” bowls of apples, raw veggies (carrots, celery and cauliflower) and bread are perfect for dipping into the gooey mixture. Dinner only.