Airton Demoraes is one of the owners of Nelore, the popular Montrose-area Brazilian steakhouse. He decided to open a second location near the Galleria with his brother Juarez, and this venture is called Angus Grill Brazilian Steakhouse (6106 Westheimer, 713-574-7727). "Houston is the best place in the U.S. to open a restaurant," says Juarez, "and even in today's economy and even though we've only been open three days, we are busier than we expected."

A rash of new Brazilian restaurants has opened in Houston the last few months. What's different about this place? "We don't have a salad bar, but we serve you the salad," says Juarez. "We have the same meats — 16 different kinds, from leg of lamb and lamb chops to the house special, picanha, to filet mignon — all for $19.95 (without dessert) or $26 (with dessert) for lunch and $32.50 for dinner (includes dessert), including an all-you-can-eat dessert bar with papaya cream, strawberry cream, cheesecake and so on."

Dish visited the week Angus Grill opened; it has the feel of a hacienda on the pampas. A large platter containing slices of tomato and mozzarella, asparagus spears, artichoke hearts and the like, along with a large bowl of Caesar salad, were served immediately, along with the delicious cheese bread that's the signature of the Brazilian churrascaria. The meats were plentiful and succulent and delicious, and came in a wide variety. The gaúchos who deliver the meat to each customer came around often. Get the table by the kitchen, since you'll get first dibs on everything – and leave room for dessert.