Savoring Summer

Summer eating can be defined by the cold summer rolls of Thai Spice (5117 Kelvin, 713-522-5100). Delicate and elegant, these loosely assembled rolls are magically light but complex. They are filling yet nutritious. Translucent rice paper swathes a scattering of warm peppery chicken, crunchy celery slivers, shaved cabbage, bright carrot shreds and yellow vermicelli threads. The kicker is the addicting sweet-and-sour dipping sauce, both tangy and spicy -- more balanced and tantalizing than the accompanying peanut sauce.
KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Robin Barr Sussman