This is one of those cute Old English names for cooked oysters wrapped in bacon. If you put three of these bacon-wrapped oysters on a wooden skewer and dip it in flour before you broil it, the dish becomes “oysters en brochette.”

12 shucked oysters, drained
1/2 teaspoon lemon pepper
6 slices bacon, cut into halves
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Toasted bread slices
Tabasco sauce (optional)
Lemon wedges (optional)

Sprinkle each oyster with lemon pepper. Wrap the bacon half around the oyster, and secure it with a toothpick. Place the oysters on a broiler pan. Broil about four inches from the burner for eight to ten minutes or until the bacon is turning crisp on all sides. Serve two or three on each slice of toast. Garnish with parsley. Add hot sauce and lemon juice if desired.

Hangtown Fry

Two different legends are told about this oyster omelet invented in the California hamlet of Hangtown. Both agree that eggs and oysters were among the most expensive foodstuffs of the Gold Rush era. One has it that this was the last meal of a condemned man; the other claims that this was the most expensive dish a gold miner who just struck it rich could think of.

2 slices bacon
6 oysters, shucked
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3 or 4 dashes Tabasco sauce
Salt and pepper

Fry the bacon until crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain. In a clean skillet melt the butter over medium heat. Add the oysters and sauté for about 1 1/2 minutes, or until they just plump up. Crumble the bacon and toss it with the oysters. Pour the eggs into the pan. Season with Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper, to taste, and cook for five minutes or until the eggs are set, turning the cooked eggs to let the uncooked eggs run underneath. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately with sourdough toast.

You can reach Robb Walsh at [email protected]