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Restaurant Reviews

Stick to the Fish and Pizza at True Food Kitchen and You'll Be Fine

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Fortunately, the server on our second visit skipped the recital part of the performance and everything went much better, with both the service and the food.

There was one misstep, but the resulting dish was good anyway. The caramelized onion tart sounded like it would be -- well, a tart. The ingredients included rounds of dried black fig, some pleasantly sticky smoked garlic and a bit of Gorgonzola. However, it turned out that instead of arriving in some kind of small pastry shell, the ingredients had been laid across lavash and toasted a bit. Except for the technical flaw that the rounds of dried fig tended to fall off, the tart was quite a good combination.

The problem was that since the name was not clear, the butternut squash pizza had been ordered for the same meal. As a result, two new dishes that were both essentially pizzas arrived during the same meal at the same time. That being said, the butternut squash pizza was another treasured standout.

Beyond beautifully and deeply caramelized slices of butternut squash and sweet onion, there were little chunks of toasted walnut to provide buttery texture. There was also a light scat-tering of arugula across the top, but this dish stopped far short of being one of those salad pizzas that were all the rage a few years ago.

True Food Kitchen must believe that even dessert is healthy, in moderation. The pear date cake was quite lovely. The poofy dark cake, with a layer of caramelized pears on top, was only slightly sweet. The real winner, though, was the remarkable squash pie, encased in a thick graham crust. It was full of the notes of cinnamon and allspice one might expect, and a coconut whipped-cream topping proved to be a crowning touch that treaded new ground. Move over, pumpkin; there's a new kid on the block.

Parking is quite easy. There's a free garage in the parking lot, and there is also a complimentary valet in front, should you be in a hurry or not wish to park your own car. Of course, tips are expected and appreciated.

The overall tab at True Food Kitchen will not cause sticker shock. Even with a cocktail or glass of wine, the price will likely be in the neighborhood of $45 per person after tax and gratuity.

If you stay with the fish dishes, pizzas and beverages, you're sure to walk out wondering how you never knew before that diet food could taste so good. Stray off the path at your own risk.

True Food Kitchen
1700 Post Oak. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays.

Edamame dumplings $9 Caramelized onion tart $10 Butternut squash pizza $12 Panang curry with tofu $14 Miso glazed black cod $25 Grilled steelhead salmon $24 Spontaneous Happiness $9 The Peacemaker $11

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Phaedra Cook
Contact: Phaedra Cook