Restaurant News

Top 9 Houston Restaurant Closings of the Decade

1. Maxim's Maxim's closed in January 2001. It was possibly the most influential restaurant in Houston's culinary history. It was the only upscale restaurant in the city for decades and its French cooking and quasi-French dining room became the very definition of fine dining for generations of Houstonians. Maxim's was named the "Restaurant of the Century" by Texas Monthly in the magazine's 1999 "Best of the Century" issue.

When the first fancy restaurant in Houston opened at the corner of Lamar and Milam in 1949, no one thought it odd that owner Camille Bermann had swiped the name from the famous restaurant in Paris. Camille Bermann's Maxim's of Houston later relocated to Greenway Plaza on Richmond.

Maxim's catered to Houston's new oil tycoons, like John De Menil, with fawning service and lavish prices. The restaurant had an extensive wine list and maintained "private club" status so patrons could store their booze in lockers. Bermann and many other American restaurant owners of the 1950s decorated their dining rooms in the "fin de siecle" bordello style. The décor, which included flocked red wallpaper, ornate chandeliers and cheap copies of French paintings, came to be known in the U.S. as the "French whorehouse" look.

Bermann, who the rich oilmen nicknamed "Frenchie," had trained under Georges Auguste Escoffier, and he brought French wine sauces and ingredients like endive to Houston for the first time. But at lunchtime, the menu always included a few meat-and-potatoes dishes, including chicken-fried steaks, for rough-and-tough wildcatters. Bermann became famous as the apostle of French cuisine, but he once remarked that it was the chicken-fried steaks that made him rich.

Maxim's never modernized its décor or menu, and it never found a younger audience. In the 1970s, Houston's first French restaurant lost its River Oaks patrons to a new generation of Italian "Rat Pack" restaurants like Tony's. Camille's son, Ronnie Bermann, sold the business to the Pappas organization, but plans to reopen never materialized after the restaurant closed its doors. While few Houston food lovers remember the place anymore, Maxim's stamp on Houston fine dining is indelible.

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Robb Walsh
Contact: Robb Walsh