It's the dish that sushi lovers and aficionados test any spot by: toro, or fatty tuna. Specifically, it's the cut of fatty meat along the fish's belly. A bad cut yields junk; a precise cut offers perfectly marbled flavor and a buttery texture. You'll never be disappointed by the toro at Osaka Japanese Restaurant, which serves the market's best tuna to a loyal clientele. The Montrose restaurant also boasts excellent offerings of sashimi (especially yellowtail tuna), consistently the best in town. The rolls here are keepers, too -- the spicy tuna and Osaka rolls are the real standouts. Between the beaming, kimono-clad waitresses and general manager Shirley, who bows to every guest and has been known to spring for appetizers or dessert, it's doubtful you'll find more authentic and attentive service.
Readers' choice: Azuma