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At Punk's Simple Southern, the Clark Cooper Concepts hand is easy to see in the just-rustic-enough decor and the carefully considered menu. This leaves little room for the simple Southern-ness to shine though, but when it does, chef Brandi Key's take on classics from Texas and the Deep South are definite winners. The chicken-fried steak is a masterpiece of beef and batter, while the biscuits are (finally) not an afterthought but a central part of the meal. Seafood and fried chicken suffer under a bland coating of batter, an unfortunate reality for a restaurant poised to take over Houston's fried-chicken scene. Of course, there are enough options on the long menu to satisfy a disappointed chicken-lover, and some mighty fine Southern desserts to boot.