As much as Houston loves barbecue, it's hard to find a consistently great spot for it. After all, it's fairly easy to mess it up. It's gotta be moist and tender with a smoky flavor, nice smoke ring and solid fat cap. Lose any of those components, and your smoker is sunk. Fortunately, Gatlin's BBQ is off the charts in every category. Housed in a tiny converted house on 19th Street in the Heights, Gatlin's is a Houston Proud kind of place. Owner Greg Gatlin is a graduate of St. Thomas High School, and he played football at Rice University. Now he mans the pits at Gatlin's, turning out incredible barbecue with gracious flair. The smoky brisket exudes flavor, gently pulling apart with the prodding of a plastic fork. It is meaty and moist, with a gorgeous smoke ring and obvious fat cap. But the ribs...Lord, the ribs. A lightly charred outside encases a tender, meaty interior. Sausage, too, is praiseworthy. Coleslaw and beans are standard fare, but the dirty rice is outstanding. And just to reinforce that homey feeling, be sure to get a hug from Mama Gatlin after your meal on your way out the door.