If you're in any way familiar with the Houston food scene, you know by now that a nondescript strip-mall location and shabby sign are in no way indicators of a restaurant's quality. Proving this rule once again is Safari, which has a small but loyal following of diners who come for solid Nigerian staples such as fufu and egusi, a melon-seed soup with beef and fish. As Houston's first Nigerian restaurant, Safari was a quiet trailblazer for African cuisine, and even though flashier places serving similar fare now pepper the city, there's something about Safari's straightforward flavors and home-style presentation that suggests your food was made in small batches with love. Safari will make you long for the Nigerian grandmother you never had.