Andes Cafe's ceviche is not only one of the most complex in Houston, it may also be the best value for the price. The portion size is huge and the seafood included is both interesting and exquisite. For $18, you get a big bowl full of corvina (delicate, white South American fish) and shrimp. Cubes of sweet potatoes add pops of sunset orange while slivers of red onions bolster with pleasant pungency. The black clams included are especially rare and hard to get. Chef David Guerrero has to make special arrangements to import them from Ecuador. Finishing off the dish are giant kernels of choclo corn from South America, lime juice and a pop of heat from aji limo Peruvian pepper. There's one problem: After experiencing such a carnival of flavors, you'll find it impossible to be satisfied with anything less.