Andes Café is both understated and ambitious. It's a simple place with no fancy designer furnishings. The ambition is on the menu. Let it not be said that chef David Guerrero does anything halfway. The dishes come from seven different South American countries: Guerrero's native Ecuador as well as Peru, Argentina, Venezuela, Colombia, Bolivia and Chile. Fans flock there for generous ceviches, entraña (skirt steak seasoned with herby chimichurri sauce) and lomo saltado. Andes Café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, which means it's possible to begin the day with tamales, green plantain dumplings and quinoa oatmeal with blackberries and pumpkin seeds, which makes for a mighty fine start indeed.